In
nine days I reached Tepaleen. Our journey was much prolonged by the
torrents that had fallen from the mountains and intersected the roads.
I shall never forget the singular scene[126] on entering Tepaleen at
five in the afternoon, as the sun was going down. It brought to my
mind (with some change of _dress_, however) Scott's description of
Branksome Castle in his _Lay_, and the feudal system. The Albanians,
in their dresses, (the most magnificent in the world, consisting of a
long _white kilt_, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold-laced jacket
and waistcoat, silver mounted pistols and daggers,) the Tartars with
their high caps, the Turks in their vast pelisses and turbans, the
soldiers and black slaves with the horses, the former in groups in an
immense large open gallery in front of the palace, the latter placed
in a kind of cloister below it, two hundred steeds ready caparisoned
to move in a moment, couriers entering or passing out with
despatches, the kettle-drums beating, boys calling the hour from the
minaret of the mosque, altogether, with the singular appearance of the
building itself, formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranger.
I was conducted to a very handsome apartment, and my health enquired
after by the vizier's secretary, 'a-la-mode Turque!'
"The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha. I was dressed in a full
suit of staff uniform, with a very magnificent sabre, &c. The vizier
received me in a large room paved with marble; a fountain was playing
in the centre; the apartment was surrounded by scarlet ottomans.
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